Recently, with my good friend Sparhawk (www.blackmountainsite.co.uk), I made a visit to Abernant Tunnel near Merthyr. We found the tunnel on an OS map, took a brief glance at it’s eastern end and decided to come back and take a look a week or so later.
East Portal
Mainly due to geocaching, and the subesquent visit a while back to the Tidenham tunnel in the Wye Valley (now sadly blocked by a new fence), to pick up a cache (here), I have discovered a new interest in visiting the abandoned railway tunnels and other industrial sites around the area. There’s something fascinating about visiting the long-abandoned relics of the industrial age, especially, like in this case, when they are 2497 yards (about 1.5 miles) long and up to 200m below the surface of the hill!
We started off from Gethin Woodland picnic site, we walked about half to three-quarters of a mile (I’d estimate) to the easternmost portal of the tunnel. This is situated at the end of a cutting I think about 1/2 mile long). The portal itself is actually fenced off, but the fence has been damaged sometime in the past on the right hand side, so there is easy access. Before I go any further, I do not condone putting yourself at risk, and it important that you understand that if you do decide to explore locations such as these, you do so at your own risk. You should NOT do it alone, and you make sure you take adequate lighting (with replacement power) and wear suitable footwear. These sorts of places can be very dangerous if you act like a fool and don’t treat them with the respect they deserve. DON’T take unnecessary risks, and make sure somebody knows you are going, and where you are going. Finally, you should never, ever, ever, commit any kind of damage to get into these places, or once inside (including graffitti). Doing so is criminal damage. Remember, take only photos, leave only footprints. If you can’t get in, then hard luck.
Anyway – lecture over.
A brief bit of history first. Abernant Tunnel (also known as Merthyr Tunnel) formed part of the old route from Merthyr to Neath. The last train passed through the tunnel in 1962 (29th December to be precise!), and the tunnel was blocked up in 1967. In 1998, the walls were removed and replaced with fencing. This tunnel is 2497 yards long, making it the second longest in Wales. The longest is the Rhondda Tunnel, at 3443 yards, but this is now inaccessible, having been buried and re-landscaped at both ends (strictly speaking it IS accessible, but only via a drainage shaft, and not without the massive risk of dying of gas poisoning due to it being adjacent to a coal deposit). Therefore, Abernant is now the longest still-accessible tunnel in Wales. For a nice pic of the tunnel with the last train going through it in 1962, go to www.alangeorge.co.uk/merthyrtunnel.htm. A more full history of the Abernant Tunnel can be found here.
We arrived and entered the tunnel through the already broken fencing. On checking it out, the structure looked fairly sound, with much less in the way of visible deterioration than we expected.
The Team
We carried with us much in the way of torches and headlights, meaning that at no time did we have a lack of light. This is something which is vital, and its importance should not be underestimated. The tunnel itself is S-Shaped, which means that you cannot see either end of the tunnel from the central mile. This means BLACK. and I mean PITCH black. The first part (20yds or so) of the tunnel is flooded, but this is only to about 3-4 inches, and is no problem to wade through with walking boots. The floor is covered in the normal aggregate that you find on railway lines, and there is no longer any sign of the tracks or sleepers, so the tunnel looks like it may have been re-floored since closing. The tunnel itself was mostly brick-lined in the sections we saw. However, it is apparently much wider at the western end, and isn’t totally lined. We’re yet to see this however.
This time, we only went to the 89CH mark in the tunnel. This means 84 Chains, which is approx 1.7km. I calculated that the tunnel is 2.28km long, and a chain is 20.11m. Therefore, we went 2.28km – (84*20.11) = Approximately 590m into the tunnel. This was far enough that we could no longer see the eastern portal by which we entered. We decided today not to go any further today, but may return in future to see a bit more.
During our visit, we took some pictures, which you can see in the gallery below, and did a bit of light painting with our torches, by setting the camera to a 30 sec exposure, and walking up the tunnel waving our torches about. Feel a bit silly doing this, but it produces some interesting results!
All-in-all, this was a very interesting visit. Again, visiting these places is entirely at your own risk, and it is good to read up about the risks before you attempt it. It is, however, extremely interesting, as you get to see a fantastic relics of a byegone age. For more information about these sorts of places, and how to visit them as safely as possible, visit www.darkplaces.co.uk. If you do decide to do it, whatever you do, use your best judgement, and be careful!
Enjoy the full range of pics…
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- 30s Exp at East Portal
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- East Portal
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- In Deep
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- A + S
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- The Team
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- The Team
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- The Team
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- Light Painting
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- Light Painting
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- Light Painting
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- Walking Back
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- Walking Back
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- Loneliness
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- East Portal From Inside
wow! this place is creepy.
well, anyway, I think I’m claustrophobic. it gets a lot harder to breathe when I’m not in an open air.
We walked the full length of the tunnel yesterday. We started at the Eastern end. The entrance and the first 50 foot of the tunnel roof were covered with the most spectacular icicles I have ever seen. Incredible. Some of them were over six foot long.
The Western end is much wider and lined with wood and metal hoops. Interesting buildings etc at that end.
An amazing place.
Martha
Hi, I Am Now 53 Years old and It Only Seems Like Yesterday That My Friends And I Walked The Full Length Of The Tunnel In 1969 As You Do When You Are 14 Years Of Age. I Recently Repeated The Journey With My Daughters Only To Find The Tunnel Is Still In Remarkable Condition, I Was Amazed Because This Is Such A Waste Of An Historic Monument.
That Should Be Shown As Welsh Heritage E.g. A Walk Way Or Cylce Track.
Ricky
I totally agree in some ways. The main problem is funding. Its very expensive to keep these tunnels maintained, especially as many of them need a fair bit of work to make them truly safe. I’d love to see some of them restored an put back into public use in some way. It’s also nice, though, to be able to explore them in their current state too… feels like you’re seeing something that not many other get to see.
love the tunnel. its on my doorstep, been up there 2day, its the bomb
That tunnel is freaky,water was pouring out of the ceiling at some point, really scary when you can’t see where your going.
It’s definitely an interesting place. Must admit though, I don’t know if I’d want to be there without a light!
Brilliant. Last time I went through that was pillion on a trial bike, this was before they gated the ends. Aberdare end was bricked up, but yet again the blockwork had been smashed through so access was easy – even with a bike! Merthyr end wasn’t flooded at all then.
I also went through it solo about 18 years ago. Not creepy at all, but a bit worrying when you’re a third of the way back through, look at your torch (which is running on a lead-acid battery) and the light ain’t white, it’s going YELLOW! :-O
I agree with you about it being pitch black, though. Lights off, you see NOTHING. Wave your hand in front of your face, nothing. Close your eyes, open them, no difference.
Next time you go, go all the way through. It’s a fantastic tunnel. Any idea who owns it these days? A mate of mine’s after a lockup, a mile-and-a-half one should be big enough!
I think that (like many of these tunnels), it’s still owned by what used to be British Rail, and is now Network Rail. I will go all the way through at some point! Been to both ends, and a third of the way in both times, so its just the middle third that I haven’t gone through yet…
Has any one been through or up to this tunnel recently i want to go thru!
It is a shame this could not be brought back into railway use. Of course the costs are prohibitive but even a heritage railway would make the journey quicker than any bus could ever make!
I never had the guts as a child a la young teenager to go through it. Now at 38, I would not care so much! A stunning tunnel it looks oh woe Beeching and all that short sightedness!
It would be great to bring it back into use in some ways. What you do have to think about though, is that if it was in use, it’d just be ‘another’ tunnel, and you wouldn’t be able to walk through it without being nabbed by the British Transport Police, or mashed by a train! I’ve now gone from end to end and back, and it’s well worth doing. Though the bigger (northern?) end is now sealed up again, so you have to go from the end I described in the post…
Brings back memories! Like Ricky did in 1969, I went through it when I was about 13, which would be about 1983. Two friends and I were playing around the Cwmbach end (as we often did) and decided to go through using a dim bollard light and battery we found near the entrance. We were terrified and huddled together following the weak crescent of light in front of us. The place was always a place of legend at school (The Ghost Train…etc – as you can imagine). After about halfway through we started mucking around i.e. running ahead and trying to scare the others. Eventually, we emerged at the Merthyr side with our hair literally standing on end. We were quite blasé walking back and after the battery finally went did it in darkness.
Great memories!
PS. The nickname of the signal station to us is ‘The Lodge’. The idea was to stop in there and have a party! Pity the Cwmbach entrance seemed virtually impassable the last time I saw it 8 years ago.
Ah,
Further research show me that it is now possible to access the Cwmbach (west) portal due a gap in the fence. Great!
A big pile of barbed wire and huge amounts of grease discouraged us from attempting to climb in 8 years ago.
Go and visit the Lodge. Take a beer and/or snack to eat in there.
Hi Rondo,
Cheers for the memories – it’s great to get stories like that, and good to hear people have been having the same sort of experiences for a fair old while…! Unfortunately, the Western portal is now blocked up again (as of about 2 months ago), as the fence has now been repaired. The eastern end is still accessible though. Martin (of http://www.blackmountainsite.co.uk), and myself walked through the tunnel and back about that long ago, and it’s still as great as it’s ever been by the looks of things! We’ve got the benefit of reasonably decent torches now though – which does help, though switching them off in the middle of the tunnel to take some pics was an experience in itself! Took a few interesting shots on that trip (here and here. Hopefully, they wont block the eastern end off too any time soon…
Cheers again!
I lived at 4 Forge Trip Abernant from 1955 until 1968…….The abernant “Kids Gang” often walked through the tunnel, and when “dared” would due it without torches. We used to walk blindly on the sleepers and I must say…with great relief were always glad to see the Merthyr Tunnel end light. Never worked up the courage to make the return journey (I was only about 11 years old) so we used to walk back over the mountain on top of the gas pipe that links Merthyr and Aberdare. ps Don’t tell my mother…she still doesn’t know of our exploits !! (I’m now 54).
Don’t worry Bryan, I wont
Was at the aberdare entrance today and the left of the two gates has now gone so is completely accessible. I have been through many times, some with no lighting at all, most memorably hurtling through on the back of a quad bike!
I tried Cwmbach end last week, no joy its like a fortress, so off i went today to the Merthyr end, fence fixed locked, and worst of all absolutely plastered with thick dirty axle grease. i’ll have to wait for the local yoofs to winkle it open again. However Morlais and Cefn Glas are both still open both end, you’ll need wellies for both though. Happy hunting and be carefull.
Found exactly the same last weekend. Ah well.
Well my fault, I visited Morlais a couple of months ago and because of all the rain we’ve been having it was really wet and misty inside so the photos were not as I would have liked, so I thought wait until its been dry a while before trying Abernant.
are you from cwmbach axeman? i was at the tunnel 30th of october 2009 still totally blocked
(
I used to live in Ynysfach and walked this many a summers day as a teenager. I just had a conversation with a colleague about interesting tunnels and decided to look it up, never thought there would be sooo much interesting information/fond memories and great pics. Thank you for re-kindling a light that I thought had gone out. My Mam still lives in Ynysfach, so as long as the new road development hasn’t blocked all the access, think a trip down memory lane (or Abernant Tunnel) is in order the next time I am home.
ME AND MY MATE WENT UP TODAY UNABLE TO GET IN AS THE FENCE HAS BEEN REPAIRED, WE WAS GOING TO TAKE A GROUP OF FRIENDS THROUGH ON BOXING DAY . NEVER MIND BETTER LUCK NEXT YEAR.
This tunnel is part of my childhood (am now 34).
I walked the length of it many times with my older brother when I was about 8 or so. Then introduced my friends to it when I was 14, then again when I was 18.
It’s a shame that it’s closed to the public. It’s a magnificent example of engineering, just look at how good it looks after all these years.
I do remember a slight stagger in the tunnel wall where there’s been a small land shift at one point, but otherwise it’s an amzing experience, totally unique and I just wish it could be opened for tours on occasion.
If anyone decides to bring a petition to my door to conveince the authorities that this is a historical monument and open it for public viewing, I will sign, and so will everyone else in the house.
Its a great idea in principle. The main problem is one that is all-too-common these days – Insurance and liability. Unfortunately, the cost of making the tunnel ‘safe’ (in an insurer’s eyes) would be enormous. This means that Network Rail (who I believe still own the tunnel), would have to foot the bill, and take the responsibility for keeping it safe, as well as be insured against any accidents that could happen in there. That’s why they don’t get reopened, and it’s the same reason why they do their utmost to block the tunnels off and stop anyone getting in there. Shame, but true.
It’s just crazy though, sin’t it? There are thousands of caves all around the UK that aren’t maintained but are completely accessible – though these man made ‘caves’ are considered dangerous (though reinforced). I can’t imagine that Wookey Hole or Dan Yr Ogof caves are any safer than this.
I wouldn’t know where to start but if an organised committee of enthusiasts were to approach Network Rail with a proposal for seasonal tours arranged by the committee (at no cost to Network Rail) whereby all attendees have signed a liability waiver, do you think it could gain any ground?
Publicity could be gathered by local news papers such as the Cynon Valley Leader, on websites like Aberdare online (and, dare I say it, Facebook). Also in town Museums etc.
Seems like a lot of work maybe, but it might be worth it if the history of these relics are brought to the attention of the surrounding areas.
I know the biggest problem structurally with these tunnels is the brickwork. May of them were originally closed due to falling brickwork. This is likely mostly due to water ingress into the tunnels. Also, in Abernant, as well as in other tunnels in South Wales, there are actually coal seams running through them, which in the case of Abernant, are visible in the workmen’s refuges. The biggest risk here is that of black damp, the mixture of gases that can cause suffocation in high proportions, and fire damp – mostly methane, that is actually explosive. Both come out of the seams when air pressure is lower outside (e.g. in rainy weather). Whilst unlikely to be a big risk, they are something that, if being ‘properly’ careful, you would check for with gas detectors. All of this adds up to a bit of a headache, and big expenses. I also don’t think that Network Rail can get people to sign a waiver – I think they can still be sued if there are accidents, and would probably not like the adverse publicity.
We can but dream!
i first visited both ends in february 1973, the portals were walled up with steel access doors, the abernant end was open, but the merthyr end was closed.The next visit was in june 1995.The abernant end was open, with a large part of the wall destroyed, the merthyr end was completely open.Me and my friend billy jewell walked through, and as it was a scorching hot day, it was a relief to be in the cool of the tunnel(does anyone remember scorching hot weather?)…my next visit was 19 th jan 2010, to the merthyr end only.the heavy duty fencing was in place, with the door locked, and anti vandal non drying paint on the upper part of the fencing. Apparently there were plans to use the tunnel as part of the Sustrans network.I talked to a local man whose property you have to access if you drve towards the tunnel, and he said the tunnel is still inspected by british rail,s property dept, or whatever they are called now…i,ve done quite a few tunnels, i,ll make a list and put in on the site in the future….mike aldron, getting older but not wiser, swansea
Would be great to see your list! As far as I know, both ends are currently still inaccessible. Interesting to see that it was considered for reuse… I think that Network Rail have to inspect all of the old tunnels periodically.
i first started checking out old tunnels in the early 70,s as an extension to my railway interests.My plan was to visit each end and take photographs.Walking through the long ones wassn,t a good idea on my own, but i did walk a few I,ll put some of the tunnels visited ….CAERAU…caerau to cymmer 1591 yds cymmer end landscaped over after my visit and i think a health centre now on site….RHONDDA….blaengwynfi to treherbert 3443 yds…went inside blaengwynfi end, which is now landscaped over, also photographed the cwmparc end…WENVOE…wenvoe to criegiau 1868 yds…runs under culverhouse cross….pipe laid through tunnel (walked through)….BRYN a.k.a.CWMCERWYN….bryn to maesteg 1010 yds…very boggy maesteg end as farmer used it to walk livestock through!….TORPANTAU…where BRECON MOUNTAIN RLWY, is at present…667 yds….TALYLLYN…talyllyn….brecon…674 yds in use as bat sanctuary….PONTYPRIDD…treforest polytechnic ground….to old station (graig) near pontypridd telephone exchange….1323 yds….
Great to hear your list…
CAERAU – Haven’t done this one – still open?
RHONDDA – You are a lucky man! Been trying to work out how to get into this one for a few years now. This is one of the ‘ultimate goal’ ones for me and my mate Martin.
WENVOE – Martin has done this one, but not me as of yet – dead straight, yes?
BRYN a.k.a.CWMCERWYN – Nope! Still there?
TORPANTAU – Yep – done this.
TALYLLYN – Good tunnel, although buried at one end now. Flooded from about halfway through, but always wanted to get down the other end via dinghy!
PONTYPRIDD – Nope – not done this one either.
Have you been through Morlais Tunnel? That’s still accessible, and although not the longest in the world, it’s interesting, with some fantastic air shafts.
Also, Tydenham tunnel, near Offa’s Dyke, is interesting, but currently blocked I believe.
I’ll have a chat with Martin (Who runs http://www.blackmountainsite.co.uk), and see if there are any above we could have a look at. Check out his site too – there are quite a few tunnels documented on there…
CAERAU…the cymmer end is landscaped over, so a no go, i,m not sure about the caerau end, as it,s a while sice i was there…..RHONDDA…..the blaengwynfi end is copletely covered over, strangely this tunnel had a ventilation shaft very near the blaengwynfi entrance, so i took a shot up it, as you do! Again i,m not sure about the Rhondda end…. WENVOE is straight, with a ventilation shaft approx midway…..BRYN …this would be very muddy indeed…since my early 70,s visit a lot of water has passed through ! also as you know fences come and go, so i don,t know the current state of play, it goes under a golf course, and the port talbot side of the track bed was used a lot by horse riders, so that,s the best point to access from. The other end comes out near a farm, and the last time i tried to check out the entrance i got very muddy. There seems to be water cascading down from a farm track most of the time….PONTYPRIDD…one end is in the college grounds, and the other end is near the B.T. building, but looking at FORGOTTEN RELICS OF AN ENTERPRIZING AGE might give you more up to date info on all the tunnels….mike
a few more tunnels…PENCAEDRAIN…between Hirwaun and Glyn neath 526 yds…if you drive up the a465 from Glyn Neath and pull in at the second lay bye on the incline , you will see wooden fencing on the side.If a bit of exploration here will find the tunnel mouth which as far as i know has never been sealed. The far end is bulldozed over.I believe they used the tunnel as a haul road when they were building the a 465.I,ve been in to ther far end, and there were some unusual small side adits in the tunnel. I was on my own and “working” so i didn,t linger too long…..GYFYLCHI, sometimes TONMAWR…from Tonmawr to the AFAN VALLEY …1109 yds(roughly opposite the AFAN ARGOED centre on the far side of the valley)closed in the early 1950,s because of instability, the Tonmawr portal is covered over,they could take the coal out by another line anyway.The Afan valley entrance was closed when i visited, but there are photos taken inside, which reveal that it is flooded as you get closer in to Tonmawr(it,s effectively dammed at the Tonmawr end……PENTRECWRT….168 yds nothing to shout about, but i had to find it! it,s not far from Pentrecwrt going towards Henllan , which is now H.Q. of the narrow gauge TEIFY VALLEY RAILWAY…..ALLTWALLIS….988 yds, this is between Pencader and Llanpumpsaint on the Carmarthen to Aberystwyth line….i walked through in the mid 1990,s but again i don,t know it,s current accessibility….MORLAIS…1040 yds …Pantyscallog, near Dowlais, went through in the 90,s but fencing acropss the green area at the village end(2009) although fence has been modified if you are slim enough to try it! CEFN GLAS …703e yds,,,Penrhiwceiber to Quaker,s yard…been through (exposed coal seams worked during miner,s strike) ….mike
Just realised I made a mistake! The tunnel I talk about in my post above as being flooded was Gyfylchi, not Talyllyn…
The record of our visit is here :-
http://www.blackmountainsite.co.uk/tunnels-and-caves/gyfylchi-tunnel-tonmawr/
These may be the pictures you’ve seen already!
Abernant (Merthyr) Tunnel open both ends on my vist on 08/03/10
Good to hear it! It’ll be closed back up eventually, but good to hear its accessible again…
Really? It was open on the 8th March? That’s annoying as we were there on the 6th and found ourselves negotiating the larger fence at the Cwmbach end…….Flippin typical!
Blimey – you actually got over that fence???? With all the barbed wire and anti-climb paint? You’re brave!
Lol, it was a challenge, but we were well prepared with thick carpet and a roper ladder…I am still trying to scrub the anti-climb paint of several items however.
Great site btw Axeman, really interesting!
Cheers! I’ll have to get back there soon, while it’s still open…
Done Abernant about last week. Fenced off at Cwmbach end. Can get in from Merthyr end via hole in fence. Not as spooky as Morlais, although walking through the tunnel and back was tiring. Quite difficult to find if you don’t quite know where this tunnel is!!
Abernant open Merthyr end 2 elastic bands holding cut gate rails in place, you have to get close to notice, also someone seems to be living in the centre refuge, it is painted white and has bedding food water candles etc. There is also evidence of fireworks being used as the are several huge multi shot firework carcasses lying about, that must have been mad.
Also have you tried the Pencadrian tunnel near Glynneath? one end is still there the other is buried, you can still get in if you examine the bottoms of the gate carefully, its deep with mud at the portal though an you definately need wellies. Use the second layby after the flyover bridge, after Glynneath going up the A465 towards Hirwaen, park your car hop over the fence and you are on the trackbed, go right for 100 yrds and there it is. the easiest tunnel by far to get to.
Wow!
What a site, realy inspiring, found you by accident, [the Black mountain site.] Hadn’t realised that others had this sort of interest, maybe I’m a bit naive to think that.
Have visited Morlais some while ago with my daughter, from the Morlais Junction end, [no torch though], went in so far, heard the running water, and guessed that it was falling from somewhere, and got a bit nervous, but will have a go in the near future with the wife.
Seen Wenvoe, walked down from behind TESCO, Penar near Newbridge, is near where I grew up, also had a look at the Clydach twins, again some while ago with my daughter.
My interest has now been very well piqued, always had an interest in railways, thats what got me going on the tunnel theme. Again great site. BY the way how do you get to Cwm Grwyn Resevoir? Can’t seem to find it on Google.
Hi Terry! Cheers for your words about the site – much appreciated! There are plenty of us crazies that want to explore these types of places, but less of us who rant about it on the internet
I’m fascinated by the history of the abandoned railways in South Wales. I’m currently tracing the course of the Pontypool to Blaenavon railway that runs through Abersychan. Interesting finding the old route, and some of the old relics left behind after they took it away…
Oh, and Grwyn Fawr Reservoir is here :-
http://tinyurl.com/36y9cps
If you decide to explore, and find out anything else, or discover anything interesting, don;t hesitate to share it!
Cheers!
Have you seen the old tramway tunnel in Rhymney. Had a quick peek inside 2 days ago, easily accesable, just behind the library.
Took acouple of pics. been looking at the Black mountains Web site, very interesting.
I f you like send me an e-mail, then I can send you the pics I did. Good hunting for the future.
Would love to see the pics. I went there with Sparhawk from the blackmountainsite.co.uk. One of the photos on that page about the tram tunnel is of me! If you want to email them to me, use mail (at) axemansplace.co.uk.
Cheers!
I’d love to own Merthyr Tunnel fill it with electric generators powered by wind turbines from the mountain above just to provide the surrounding areas with free leccy. If anybody got the dough and know how make something of it before they fill it. I’ve walked through this magnificent tunnel and thought what a shameful way to waste a shortcut.
Friends and i have walked many a time through this fantastic tunnel back in the 80′s. There was only a wall just over the half way part which could easily be climbed. We used it as a shortcut through to merthyr. We even used to camp inside in the recesses about half way in.
Don’t know if you and sparhawk know about the audit in carno. Supurb for a trip. About 1 mile long with a very nice (not!!) cave on the far side.
Would make a fantastic trip for you though.
Cheers for the superb site !!
this tunnel was our playground as kids. Went throuh it and back on 27th Sept 10. Still wonderful in a brooding almost melancholic way . Access through damaged gate from portal on Merthyr side, cwmbach side is still well gated so me and my friend walked back, would have been able to get over when adolescent but not now. I thoroughly agree with erlier comment this is a magnificent industrial survivor, if network rail and local council pitched resources and made it safe it could be a major tourist attraction(as above to the detriment of people like me with a chunk of the child still in them I would not want to be guided)
By the way for those who may not know it was meant to be a double track tunnel but the rock was so tough this was given up on .So the West portal is much larger than the eastern Merthyr side portal
What is it about tunnels etc that is so endlessly fascinating for people like me. Good photos by the way. My English cannot describe the ambience generated by this monument but visit it if you can.
Warning , it is showing signs of cracking here and there, also when younger we would go through without lights using sticks to guide us. Dont try this now as there are open drains a foot or two deep on the sides that are now ,the stone covers having been removed.